Cheryl Leung’s Dream To Create A Chinese Label To Rival Western Powerhouses

After several years of working her way up the fashion industry ladder, rotating between different departments, from buying and merchandising to marketing and operations, Hong Kong-based designer Cheryl Leung noticed a clear gap in the market. 

After working with multiple luxury Western fashion brands expanding into the Asian market, in cities like Shanghai and Chengdu, Leung noticed that Chinese brands rarely occupied the same prestige spaces. Like many an entrepreneur before her, Leung decided to take matters into her own hands and launch a brand that would one day become an it-girl staple. 

Inside Retail connected with Leung to discuss her inspiration behind launching Sau Lee and her long-term vision for the brand. 

Inside Retail: Before launching Sau Lee, can you provide a breakdown of your career path and how it led you to launching your own apparel brand?

Cheryl Leung: I began my career in the graduate management program at Lane Crawford, one of Asia’s leading luxury retailers. The program allowed me to rotate across different departments, from buying and merchandising to marketing and operations, which gave me a very holistic understanding of how fashion businesses operate.

During that time, I was also closely involved in the launches of Lane Crawford’s flagship stores in Shanghai and Chengdu. Seeing how global fashion houses expand and build desire in new markets was incredibly formative for me.

At the same time, it made me realise something was missing. I saw how much prestige and cultural authority Western fashion brands carried globally, yet Chinese design rarely occupied that same space. That realisation stayed with me and eventually became the starting point for creating Sau Lee.

IR: How did you first come up with the concept for Sau Lee?

CL: The idea for Sau Lee came from a simple but persistent question I kept returning to: why wasn’t there a Chinese fashion brand that stood at the scale and cultural presence of the world’s most recognised fashion houses?

Chinese craftsmanship has extraordinary depth, from the structure of the cheongsam to the symbolism embedded in textiles and embroidery. Yet, in global fashion, it was often presented either as purely traditional or as something decorative rather than authoritative.

I wanted to create a brand that reinterpreted those heritage codes through a contemporary lens. Sau Lee was founded as a global Chinese fashion brand that honours the artistry of Chinese craftsmanship while expressing it through bold silhouettes, sensual structure and modern design.

IR: In the hyper-competitive market that is the apparel industry, what are Sau Lee’s main points of differentiation, and how does the brand appeal to today’s fashion consumer?

CL: Our biggest point of differentiation is our perspective. Sau Lee is rooted in Chinese craftsmanship, but the designs are unapologetically modern.

We reinterpret heritage elements such as the cheongsam silhouette, mandarin collars, and pipa knot buttons through contemporary proportions, rich textures, and confident structure. The result is clothing that feels culturally grounded yet very current.

Today’s fashion consumer is looking for more than just a beautiful piece. She wants meaning, identity and individuality in what she wears. Sau Lee resonates with women who appreciate fashion that is expressive, sensual and intentional.

IR: Sau Lee first launched in 2014. In the decade-plus period of running the brand, what have been the biggest challenges you’ve faced and what steps did you take to overcome them?

CL: One of the biggest challenges has been navigating cultural perception, particularly in Western markets.

Chinese design has often been misunderstood. It can be seen as either overly traditional or treated cautiously because of cultural sensitivities. For a long time, this created hesitation around how it could exist in the contemporary fashion landscape.

Rather than dilute the brand’s identity, I focused on clarity. We stayed committed to our point of view and allowed the design to speak for itself. When women try on the pieces and feel confident and empowered wearing them, that connection becomes immediate.

Over time, that consistency has helped shift the conversation.

IR: What have been some of your proudest stand-out moments thus far?

CL: Seeing women around the world connect emotionally with the brand has been incredibly meaningful.

Whether it’s someone wearing Sau Lee for a wedding, a celebration, or a major life moment, those experiences remind me why the brand exists.

Another proud moment has been seeing our modern cheongsam silhouettes gain recognition globally. Early on, some retailers were hesitant about the silhouette, but today it has become one of the categories they are most excited about. Watching that shift reinforced my belief that when design is built with conviction, people respond.

IR: In what ways has the fashion and retail industry shifted since Sau Lee first entered the market? What measures have you taken to stay current with today’s retail landscape and consumer trends?

CL: When Sau Lee launched, the fashion landscape was still very wholesale-driven and social media was only beginning to shape consumer discovery.

Today, the industry is far more direct and digital. Consumers discover brands through content, community and storytelling, not just traditional retail channels. We have embraced that shift by investing heavily in our direct-to-consumer presence while continuing to build strong wholesale partnerships. At the same time, we stay very focused on product and design integrity because ultimately that is what creates long-term brand loyalty.

IR: What do you think it is about the brand that appeals to the American fashion consumer?

CL: The American consumer is very open to discovering new perspectives in fashion.

What resonates with many women in the US is the balance Sau Lee offers. The pieces feel distinctive and expressive, but they are also very wearable for modern occasions. There is also a growing appreciation for cultural depth in fashion. When heritage is expressed authentically and confidently, it adds a layer of meaning that many consumers find compelling.

IR: In March, Sau Lee is hosting a pop-up event with Bloomingdale’s. What can we expect from Sau Lee in terms of physical retail over the next few years?

CL: Physical retail is an important part of how customers experience the brand.

When someone can see the craftsmanship up close, feel the fabrics and try on the garments, it creates a much deeper emotional connection. We will continue exploring pop-ups and retail partnerships as a way to introduce new customers to Sau Lee. Over time, we are also interested in creating more permanent physical spaces that allow the brand to be experienced more fully.

Where do you hope to take the brand in the next five years?

CL: My vision is to establish Sau Lee as a truly global Chinese fashion brand with the presence and influence of legacy fashion houses. That means continuing to expand internationally while staying deeply committed to our cultural point of view and design philosophy.

Ultimately, I want Sau Lee to help redefine how Chinese design is seen in the global fashion conversation.

Further reading: How Hong Kong apparel brand Sau Lee appeals to the American fashion lover

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